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66°F / 19°C
(Despejado. Templado.)
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Think vast expanses of desert, golden sands, a fiery sun, date-palms and mosques, interspersed with multistorey towers, malls, and the best cars money can buy – welcome to Riyadh, where the past and the present blend into the city’s singular identity. It took twenty centuries for Saudi Arabia’s young capital to evolve from a tiny settlement at the confluence of riverbeds to a sprawling metropolis in one of the richest countries in the world.
For hundreds of years, Riyadh remained an oasis in the midst of a sweltering desert, a patch of green in a sea of gold. Historical travelers’ accounts make mention of this almost magical settlement, which managed to survive and prosper in one of the most arid, barren regions in the world. The settlement was known by the name ‘Hajar’ in pre-Islamic times, and is referred to in the diaries and journals of merchants and tradesmen who visited. It seems that it was as prosperous then as it is now—it was a center of commerce. Trade flourished and travelers from all over the world came to barter their goods and carry home stories of this unique little place in the midst of what is now the Arabian Peninsula.
Hajar was primarily known for its vast amounts of date orchards. Parts of the settlement were known as Riyadh, a name derived from the Arabic word 'rowdhah,' meaning 'place of gardens.' These parts possessed several orchards, which is probably how they got their name. It was a sight of amazement to see the green trees stretching across the otherwise barren sands. Gradually the whole of the settlement came to be known by this name.
Life in Riyadh continued thus for centuries. Kingdoms rose and fell the world over, but the little oasis town remained undisturbed. The 20th century, however, saw some of the most historically relevant occurrences that would shape the future of the city. In the year 1902, Abdul Aziz bin Abdul Rehman Al-Saud (known as Ibn Saud) seized Riyadh in his quest to establish a singular Arabic kingdom in the desert peninsula. Abdul Aziz was of royal lineage; the Al-Sauds had lorded over a large part of the peninsula since the 17th century. However, in the 18th century, they were driven from their holdings by the Egyptians and the Ottoman Turks. In the process of regaining his lost empire, Abdul Aziz conquered Riyadh, and spent the next three decades laying the foundations of his kingdom. On September 23, 1932, the country of Saudi Arabia was born, and Riyadh was declared the capital.
Despite being declared the capital, Riyadh was not the seat of governance and commercial activities. Jeddah was the preferred commercial centre, and it was only in the 1970s that a forced transfer of political bodies, industrialization and trade to Riyadh occurred, following a step-up in oil production. The revenues earned from oil ventures funded the modernization of the capital, and its impressive infrastructure has sealed its reputation as one of the richest, most flourishing cities in the world today.
Riyadh’s roots and ancient history, however, continue to make their presence felt – here is a place where ancient mosques and modern malls exist side by side, where minarets and modern hotels stretch to touch the skies, and where both cars and camels are a mode of transport. If one looks hard enough, one will discover the true spirit of that oasis town of long ago – there are several places of historical interest in Riyadh.
Visit Al Musmak Castle, a veritably impenetrable fortress that was built sometime around 1865, and was seized by Abdul Aziz in the course of his invasion. The Diwan (Sitting-room of the King) is a major attraction here. For an example of Arabian architecture, go to Al-Thumairi Gate, located in the city centre. It was one of nine gates that led to Riyadh – the others were torn down in the 1950s.
If traveling a little outside of the city is not a problem, visit the ruins of Old Ad’Diriyah, and Al-Murabba’a Historical Palace. Ad’Diriyah was the capital of the Arabian Peninsula from 1146 to 1818. It was razed in the course of battle, however, and was never rebuilt – the ruins of palaces, mosques and the city wall still remain, 30 kilometers north of Riyadh. Al-Murabba’a Palace, built by Abdul Aziz, is also outside of the city limits. Another place of interest is Jabal Abu Makhrouq Park in the Malaz Quarter’s mountainous region – the park is modern, but it was from here that Abdul Aziz maintained a vigil on the city. Besides these remnants of Riyadh’s past, one can visit the city museums, which showcase ancient artifacts and shed light on Arabian life in previous centuries. The National Museum holds ancient manuscripts, documents, and furniture of historical significance, King Abdul Aziz Military Museum has old military uniforms and weaponry on display, and the Museum of Antiquities and Folklore showcases everything from ceramic utensils to stamps.
The people of Riyadh have attempted to preserve their ancient customs and traditions despite the modernization of the city. While it continues to evolve and develop at a rapid rate, they have maintained the rigid rules and inculcated the moral values of their forefathers. A crime in Saudi Arabia is as grievous an offense now as it was hundreds of years ago, and the punishment can be severe–a petty pickpocket may have his hands cut off. The laws are extremely strict, so if one is to explore Riyadh and learn its history, one must observe proper social decorum at all times. The experience, however, is worth it – an insight into a life radically different from one’s own is always fascinating, and life in the land of Black Gold is, to say the least, unique.
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